How to Hire a Contractor in Maine Without Getting Burned
This guide walks a Maine homeowner through hiring a builder in the order the decisions actually arrive: writing a scope, building a shortlist, running the first call, collecting comparable quotes, signing, and paying against completed work. Seth's Home Pros is a referral service, so the checks described here are ones you run yourself.
It covers the whole state and links to eight deeper guides on licensing, questions, red flags, estimates, deposits, insurance, second opinions and abandoned jobs. The highest-return hour in the process is the one spent writing down the scope before calling anybody, because that is what turns five incomparable numbers into three quotes for the same job.
Maine does not license general contractors, so there is no state registry to look someone up in and no license number that means anything. What protects you here is a written contract, verified insurance, references you actually call, and a deposit that stays inside the legal cap.
That is the whole answer. The rest of this page is how you do each of those four things without it taking over your life.
I match Maine homeowners with vetted general contractors across the state, from the builders I work with in Portland to the smaller towns inland. Three quotes, free, and no obligation to hire any of them.
What should you do before you call anyone?
Most bad hires start with a homeowner who is not ready. They call five builders, describe the project differently to each one, get five numbers that cannot be compared, and pick the one who seemed nicest on the phone.
Before you call anybody, write down four things.
What you want built, in plain sentences. Not a mood board. "Replace the deck, same footprint, composite, with a stair to the yard" is a scope. "Update the back of the house" is not.
What your ceiling is. The real one, including the part you have not admitted to yourself. A contractor who knows your ceiling can tell you in ten minutes whether the project fits it.
When you need it done, and whether that date is real or aspirational.
What you will not compromise on. Usually one or two things. Knowing them keeps you from spending money on the other eight.
That page of notes is the single highest-return hour in the whole process. It turns five incomparable numbers into three quotes for the same job.
What does Maine license, and what does it not?
This surprises people every time, so it is worth stating plainly.
Maine does not license general contractors, builders, or remodelers. There is no state exam, no state registry, and no license number to ask for. Anyone in this state can print business cards tomorrow and call themselves a contractor.
What the state does license is narrower. Plumbers and electricians hold real state licenses, and so do land surveyors and site evaluators. Those are the trades where a mistake is a safety problem, and Maine treats them accordingly. If your project includes plumbing or electrical work, the person doing that specific work is licensed and you can check it.
A bill to license residential contractors moved through the Legislature and died when the session adjourned, so nothing has changed. Anybody claiming to hold a general contractor's license in this state is either confused about what they actually have or hoping you will not ask.
None of that means Maine is lawless. It means the verification job falls to you rather than to a state board, and the things you verify are different. I go into the whole picture on what Maine licenses and what to check instead.
How do you build a shortlist worth having?
Three names is the target. Not one, and not seven.
Ask people who have finished a project, not people who are in the middle of one. Month two enthusiasm is not information. Ask somebody eighteen months past their remodel whether they would hire the same builder again, and listen to the pause before the answer.
Ask the trades. Plumbers, electricians and lumber yards see who pays on time and who runs a clean site. They will not badmouth anyone, but they will tell you who they like working for, and that is the same information in a politer form.
Be careful with review counts. A page of five-star reviews is easy to accumulate and easy to buy. Two detailed reviews that describe a real problem and how it got handled are worth more than fifty that say "great job."
Match the builder to the job. The best framer in your county may be the wrong choice for a period kitchen, and a high-end remodeler will price your garage like a remodel. Ask what they build most weeks of the year.
If you would rather skip the shortlist step, that is the part I do. My network is screened before anybody gets a name, and I match on the trade and the town rather than on who paid for the top spot.
What should you ask on the first phone call?
You learn most of what you need in the first ten minutes, and almost none of it is about price.
Ask when they could start and how many jobs are running right now. A builder with four active sites and one crew has told you your finish date whether or not they meant to.
Ask who is actually on your project. The owner who sells the job is often not the person swinging the hammer, and that is fine as long as you know it before you sign rather than in week three.
Ask whether they will be subcontracting, and what. Almost everyone subs out plumbing and electrical. That is normal. What matters is whether they use the same people every time or whoever is free.
Then listen for the shape of the answers. Somebody who tells you the parts of your project that will be difficult is showing you they have done it. Somebody who says everything is easy has not priced it yet.
The full list of what to cover is on 12 questions to ask before you sign.
How do you make three quotes comparable?
Three quotes on three different versions of your project is worse than useless, because it gives you false confidence in a comparison you did not actually make.
Give every contractor the same written scope, the same allowances for the things you have not picked yet, and the same deadline to respond. Then read the quotes for structure rather than for the number at the bottom.
An estimate is a document with parts, and the parts tell you more than the total does. What is included, what is excluded, what is an allowance, and what happens when something unexpected turns up. I walk through the anatomy of one on how to read a contractor's estimate.
Getting three matched quotes in front of you is the service I actually provide, and the quotes page covers how to compare them once you have them.
What must a Maine construction contract say?
Here Maine does protect you, and specifically.
Under the Maine Home Construction Contract Act, any home construction or repair contract over $3,000 in labor and materials has to be in writing. Not a handshake, not a texted number, not an emailed proposal you both agreed to verbally.
The Act also spells out what that written contract has to contain: who the parties are, a description of the work and the materials, the price, the payment schedule, the start and completion dates, a warranty statement, how change orders get handled, and notice about dispute resolution.
The Maine Attorney General publishes a free model home construction contract that meets the requirement. A contractor who uses it, or who uses their own contract that is at least as thorough, is telling you something about how they run their business. One who resists putting the job in writing at all is telling you something louder. The Attorney General's consumer pages have the model contract and the rest of the requirements.
Read the completion date and the change order clause twice. Those two are where most disputes eventually live.
How much should you pay up front?
Maine caps the initial deposit on a home construction contract at one third of the contract price. That is state law, not a negotiating position, and it exists because deposit abuse is the most common way homeowners lose money in this trade.
There is a narrow allowance for special order materials, which is legitimate. A builder ordering custom windows with a long lead time has real money out the door before your first framing day. What is not legitimate is a general request for half up front on an ordinary job.
Past the deposit, the rest should be a draw schedule tied to work being finished rather than to dates on a calendar. Payment on foundation complete, payment on frame and roof, payment on rough-in inspections passed, and a final payment on punch list complete. Structured that way, you are never far ahead of the work, which is the entire point.
Hold a final payment until the punch list is genuinely done. It is the only pressure you have left at the end and everyone in the trade expects you to use it. More on the rule and how it works in practice on what Maine's one third deposit law means for you.
How do you verify a contractor's insurance?
This is the step people skip, and it is the one that can cost the most.
You want two things: general liability, which covers damage to your property, and workers' compensation, which covers an injury on your job. If a worker without coverage is hurt on your property, the question of who pays can end up pointed at your homeowner's policy.
Do not accept a photograph of a certificate. Ask for the certificate to come directly from the insurance agent, with your name and your project address on it, and read the expiration dates. A certificate is a snapshot of one day, and policies lapse.
Sole proprietors with no employees are often exempt from carrying workers' compensation in Maine, which is legal and common. It also means an injury on your job has no policy behind it. Knowing that before work starts lets you decide, rather than finding out afterward. The details are on contractor insurance in Maine and what to verify.
Which red flags should end the conversation?
Some things are worth a question. A few are worth walking away, no matter how good the price is.
A door to door pitch about leftover material from a job down the road. Pressure to sign today for a discount that expires. A demand for cash, or for a check made out to a person rather than a business. No written contract on a job well over the threshold. A deposit request past a third. No physical address. An unwillingness to give references from the last year specifically.
Any single one of those is a reason to slow down and ask more. Two together and the answer is no. I have the longer catalogue, sorted by when in the process you tend to see it, on contractor red flags.
What should you do once work starts?
Signing is not the finish line, and the habits you keep during the job decide how the end goes.
Put every change in writing before it happens, with a price. A verbal change order is a dispute waiting for a slow month.
Take photographs, especially of anything about to be covered up. Ten minutes with your phone before the drywall goes on has settled more arguments than any contract clause.
Keep one thread. Email or text, one channel, so that six months later the record of what was agreed is in one place instead of scattered across three apps and a memory.
Pay on the schedule, and only on the schedule. If you are financing, do not ask a lender to release a draw early as a favor. That schedule is protecting you, not the bank.
Raise problems early and quietly. Most contractors will fix a small thing cheerfully in week two and defensively in week ten. Nothing improves by being saved up.
What can you do if the job goes wrong?
Sometimes it does, and the useful thing is knowing the order of operations.
Start with a written request that is specific about what is unfinished and what you expect. Keep it factual. Most stalled jobs restart at exactly this step, because a written record changes the tone of the conversation.
If that does not work, the Maine Attorney General's consumer protection people take complaints about home construction and run a mediation process. If real money is at stake or the job has been abandoned outright, talk to a Maine attorney. I am not one and neither is anybody in my network, and this page is general information rather than legal advice.
The whole sequence, including what to do in the first week, is on my contractor stopped showing up.
How to hire a contractor in Maine, in short
Write down the scope before you call anyone. Get three names from people who finished projects, not from an ad. Ask the same questions of each. Get the same written scope quoted three times. Read the estimates for structure rather than for the bottom line. Put it in writing, because over $3,000 the law requires it anyway. Keep the deposit inside a third. Verify the insurance with the agent. Photograph everything. Pay on completed work.
None of that is complicated. It is just a list nobody hands you, which is why most people learn it one expensive project at a time.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need a licensed contractor in Maine? For general construction there is no such license, so nobody can hold one. Plumbing and electrical work is done by state licensed trades, and those licenses are real and checkable.
How many quotes should I get? Three, on the same written scope. One quote is a number with nothing to compare it against, and past three you are mostly adding delay.
Is a large deposit ever reasonable? Only inside the legal cap, and the cap is one third. A larger request tied to special order materials is worth hearing out and worth getting in writing, but the ordinary answer is a third or less.
What if the contractor will not give me a written contract? Over $3,000 in labor and materials, Maine requires one. Somebody refusing to write down the job is refusing the part that protects you both, and that is enough to end it.
Should I hire the lowest bid? Not automatically. A low number usually means either a genuinely lean operation or a scope that missed something, and finding out which one is worth an hour of your time before you sign.
Can I check a contractor's history anywhere? There is no state registry, so the checkable record is references from the last year, a current certificate of insurance from the agent, court records in the counties they work in, and finished work you can go look at.
How do you get three names without the legwork?
Everything above is doable on your own, and plenty of people do it. It takes a few weeks and a lot of unreturned calls.
The alternative is that I do the screening part. Tell me what you are building, roughly what you want to spend, and what town you are in, and I will put three contractors in front of you who fit the trade and the area. Free to you, and you are under no obligation to hire any of them.
More on the work itself: every town I cover